The title of Most Unusual Succulent has to go to Lithops.
Not only do they look wildly different from any other succulent – resembling stones, hooves, or tiny brains – they also have a fascinating structure and can survive with little to no water for extensive periods.
Because these plants are so unusual, many gardeners find them difficult to care for. However, once you understand the basics, Lithops can be one of the lowest maintenance (and strangest-looking) plants in your entire garden.
What on Earth are Lithops?
Lithops are native to southern Africa, where they can be found hiding
amongst rocks in grasslands or dry, sandy areas. They are commonly referred
to by their scientific name which comes from Ancient Greek – líthos meaning
stone and óps meaning face. You can call them stone-face if you like, but
Lithops seems far easier.
Each plant has thick, fused leaf pairs with almost no stem, connecting to a
deep root system.
In the wild, the majority of the leaf is buried underneath the soil to
protect the plant from harsh sun and predators (their low profile allows
them to blend in with other rocks, so much so that even biologists find them
difficult to spot).
The tops of the leaves – known as leaf windows – are translucent to allow
light to reach all parts of the leaf underground for photosynthesis.
Flowers emerge from the crevice between the two leaves. Each plant
produces one flower per lifecycle after 3-5 years.
Once the flower dies back, a seed capsule forms in the center of the
leaves, which ejects seeds from the plant when exposed to moisture. New
leaf pairs also emerge from the split in the plant, slowly taking up
moisture from the dying leaves as they grow, to start the process all over
again.
Lithops Care
When compared to the care of other home-grown plants, Lithops largely take
care of themselves. Unfortunately, that’s often where the problem comes
in.
We’re so used to fussing over our plants and wondering whether we are
caring for them correctly, that we tend to overdo it sometimes. That can
quickly lead to a Lithops’ demise.
Keep your distance, follow these simple care tips, and you should have your
Lithops for years.
Light
Like all succulents, plenty of sun vital for growth. Lithops need 4-5 hours
of direct sun per day and partial sun in the afternoons to prevent
scorching.
Some ambitious gardeners grow Lithops as houseplants. You may want to try
it, but you’ll need to ensure they have plenty of light throughout the day.
Under low light conditions, Lithops’ leaves will stretch toward the nearest
light source and become distorted, known as etiolation. Little light can
also dull the color of the leaves (which is arguably the best part of the
whole plant).
Lithops are not fans of a change in environment. When moving your plant to a
different area, alter the conditions gradually so it has time to adjust to
the light levels. These plants – like many people you probably know – don’t
like surprises.
Water
To survive in these conditions, Lithops’ leaves act as tiny water
reservoirs, storing enough water to feed the plant. To keep your Lithops
happy, mimic their natural seasonal rainfall conditions and resist the
panicked urge to water all the time. If the soil is dry – good. They like
it that way.
In the summer and winter months, don’t water your Lithops at all. They go
dormant or semi-dormant at these times and watering is likely to cause
root rot.
Only consider watering during summer if the tops of the leaves begin to
wrinkle (a sign of lack of water). Be cautious when doing so and water as
little as possible. The smallest amount will be enough to return the
leaves to their plump, happy state.
During spring and fall – the growing seasons – start watering with a tiny
amount of water every couple of weeks. In high-humidity areas, you may not
need to follow this step as the plant can absorb enough moisture from the
air.
It probably goes without saying after all the no-water talk, but it’s
vital to keep your Lithops away from rain or any drips overhead (from
gutters, for example). You don’t want to go through the painstaking
trouble of not watering, only to have the weather ruin your hard work for
you.
Temperature
Lithops are not fans of winter. Or cold temperatures (I tend to agree with
them). In their natural environments, cold temperatures are uncommon and
cause serious damage to the plant.
When exposed to low temperatures, the cell walls of the plant leaves
break. Any exposed sections typically rot and die off.
Lithops like temperatures around 65-85F, with some wiggle room above and
below those thresholds for short periods of time. Don’t leave them in
temperatures below 50F, or over 100F, for too long to avoid risking damage
to the leaves.
Soil
The soil in Lithops’ natural environment ranges from sandy to almost
completely rocky. They are very tolerant of ‘poor quality’ soils – in
fact, that’s what they’re used to.
A gritty, well-draining mix is ideal; the less water it holds, the
better. Use a standard cactus potting mix or make your own by combining
50% potting mix with a mixture of sand, rock, and perlite.
Fertilizing
Generally, it is best not to fertilize your Lithops – mostly because
they don’t need it, but also because they are not used to it.
Fertilizing is likely to do more harm than good.
Some gardeners like to apply fertilizer once over the growing season to
promote flowering. When applying fertilizer for this purpose, do so
sparingly. Use a heavily diluted cactus fertilizer, not a regular
fertilizer, as it will burn the leaves. If your plant is not flowering,
it could be the result of age. Some Lithops will only flower after 5
years of growth.
Pests and Diseases
When it comes to Lithops problems, pests and diseases are not common
ones. In fact, most plant diseases have no effect on Lithops, and
pests are likely to ignore them altogether in favor of your tastier
plants. But, if you’re one of the unlucky few that encounter a pest
problem, here’s how to combat them:
Spider mites: Spider mites hide in the crevice between the lithops
leaves or around the edges of the plant. To remove them, apply an
insecticidal or suffocate them with a mixture of dish soap and water
(oil-based products are not recommended as sun exposure could burn the
leaves).
Mealybugs: Remove by hand or suffocate with the same method above.
Aphids: The juicy leaves of the Lithops may attract aphids, which can
also be removed by hand or with an insecticidal product.
Lithops Propagation
The easiest way to propagate Lithops is by seed, but they can also
be propagated by division in certain circumstances. Although it’s
the preferred method of propagation among many gardeners,
leaf-cutting is not an option. Each plant only has two of them – it
would be like removing a limb.
You can either purchase Lithops seeds or harvest seeds from your own
plant.
During the flowering season, cross-pollinate manually using a small
brush by transferring pollen from one plant to another. When the
flower dies back, the plant should produce a seed capsule in the
center that will open when exposed to water. Sprinkle the seeds over
gritty soil in a separate pot and cover them with a light layer of
sand. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination.
A cluster of Lithops can also be propagated by division, although
finding or growing a cluster large enough for separation is not
particularly common.
Remove the plant from the pot and shake off any soil around the
roots. Cut the roots between each leaf pair gently to separate them
into individual plants and repot.
Lithops are incredibly slow-growing plants. You may not see the
fruits of propagation for several months or years. It’s a long-term
investment, but definitely a worthwhile one.
With low-maintenance requirements, an interesting structure, and a
look that makes the non-gardeners stop and ask, ‘wait, are you
growing rocks?’ – it’s hard not to want a garden full of Lithops.
There are almost 40 varieties, each with its own patterns and quirks
– the perfect collector’s item for gardeners and houseplant lovers.
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